Once upon a time long long ago…If I remember correctly it was the Summer of 2005, when I did my first Trek in Himalayas. It was the Gangotri-Tapovan trek. It was then, when I learned about a tough trek to Kedartal and had always dreamt of doing it since then. Finally August, 2010, it seemed apparent that my young-hood dream would come true. It was all set, new sleeping bags, new rucksacks and with a lot of enthusiasm me and my 3 friends, took a 3 day off, combined with another holiday and weekends headed straight to mountains.
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
CHARACTERS OF STORY
Oh yess!! Before the story begin, its very important to know the characters of the story. It just gives a more realistic touch to the story. To start off there was ME.
ME aka Tanzeem: In case of this story, I am the script writer and the director for this blog. I call myself a dreamer/day dreamer. I want to do a lot of things in my life, its just that I am too lazy to do it.. Don’t know somehow I find enough enthusiasm to pull myself to 2-3 treks a year.
Pankaj: We both joined from ISM together in the same year and since then we have done quite a few treks together. After getting married, I presume he had a tough time to get approval for this trek. But he did manage it!!
Vivek: Sharma Ji, as we call him, is a local lad; comes from Dehradun and his native being Pauri. Recently got engaged and spent 80% of the time travelling, talking to his fiancé!! Being ex-capatain of our cricket team, he certainly has a lot of leadership qualities… Very good at trekking and lead most of the times in the trek!! Both Pankaj and Vivek like to celebrate after completing a trek or a part of it!!
Shubhodip: The real source of entertainment. Very light hearted, takes all the jokes and enjoys them too… But I still think he is very confused. Deeds that he does sometimes can be described as the joke of the year. Would you congratulate a person, if he says “Today is my Onam?” Onam: New Year in Kerla. Oh not to forget my competitor when it comes to Snoring. He dint let me sleep one night.. he paid for next 3 nights!!!
Jai Bhai: Our guide; A very kind and an experienced trekker, generally very quite and humble and surly very helpful. A typical nice guy from the pahadi ilaka!!
Sheru: The smartest and the one of the best looking Bhotia Dog I had ever seen. I guess he loves to eat only meat, or only when his master feeds him. Very obedient and I am very sure the moment he gets pissed off he would tear you apart!!!
the Story Begins
Coming back to the story now, I guess our trip was jinxed right from the time go. Why do I say that? It was a clear day, no rains in Delhi, and it seemed we should have no problem in reaching Nizamuddin Railway Stn. We started late to escape the traffic window, just to get stuck in worst traffic at the most unlikeliest time. A wrong turn cost us an exit from Outer Ring road; call it a blessing in disguise. It was totally empty and we made it to station in the nick of time. 4:00AM, we arrived at Haridwar station and took a Taxi to Uttarkashi. Why Uttarkashi instead of Gangotri? That is another story!!
Lets call it another reason for the journey being jinxed!! Well before we started our journey, we were monitoring the climate in hills, especially in Gangotri. It always said Thunderstorm with heavy showers or Moderate Showers etc etc etc.. I called up few contacts and they give me even more terrible news. There was a landslide at Bhatwari and the route was closed. But even then we went ahead with a positivity, thinking that the route might just open. Unlike the Kedarkanta Peak trek, guess the lady luck wasn’t shining on me this time round.
Lets call it another reason for the journey being jinxed!! Well before we started our journey, we were monitoring the climate in hills, especially in Gangotri. It always said Thunderstorm with heavy showers or Moderate Showers etc etc etc.. I called up few contacts and they give me even more terrible news. There was a landslide at Bhatwari and the route was closed. But even then we went ahead with a positivity, thinking that the route might just open. Unlike the Kedarkanta Peak trek, guess the lady luck wasn’t shining on me this time round.
After passing by some minor landslides we finally reached Uttarkashi at around 11.30am. Our trek organizer Mr. Pitamber from Highland Trek wasn’t very encouraging, to let us take the trek to Kedartal. Apparently it was the not the best time to trek to Kedartal, because of the heavy rains, rock fall and landslide prone areas all the way through the trek. But still we insisted!! Another problem being, reaching Gangotri. We had to reach Bhatwari; where landslide had happened and walk 4-5km across to other side and take another jeep to Gangotri there. Hassle hassle.. While shopping for our ration we had a small team talk and decided, is it worth taking all this risk. Even if we make it to Kedartal after so much of hassle and hard work, what if it rained on the D-day???? Or what if its very cloudy??? What about the views that we would have otherwise got?? The famous; Reflection of Thalaysagar Peak in the crystal clear water of lake!! Then came the moment of truth. Surly after that small talk everyone was thinking, if it was worth it. Then came the final nail in the coffin; third reason why I say the trip was JINXED!!! We decided to go back to Mr. Pitamber to explore our options. It became more and more clear that my young-hood dream of trekking to Kedartal would have to wait little bit longer.
On returning, we were offered Dodital-Dharwa Top and Sahastratal Tal, later taking 6 days. Shubhodip was very excited about Dodital-Dharwa top trek. Well someday even I had to do it. So not trying to confuse ourselves with a heavy heart we all decided to do Dodital-Dharwa top trek. Pitamber arranged us the Guide. His name was Jay Kumar something … we called him Jai Bhai.. he was a local from Agoda village, which is on the way to Dodital. Very experienced and very kind man, had done the Khalindi Khal Expedition (one of the most difficult trek in rld) 4 times, Kedar Dome several times and a expert trekker to Rudra Gaira Peak and Satopanth are few feathers in his hat.
While chatting to Pitamber we learned that there was a trek route from which one could cross across the Dharwa to and get down to Hanuman Chatti via Seema. It sounded pretty damn interesting. And all of us were game for it. But that required camping and carrying ration and fuel. So along with our Guide we took 3 porters to carry our tents and ration. All set we took the jeep to Snagamchatti from Uttarkashi; cost us Rs. 300/-
click on the link below for pictures
Sangamchatti to Agoda: 6km -- (2250m)
24th August, 2010: 4:00PM
We got off at Sangamchatti. After an failed attempt to buy kerosene, our guide decided to buy it from or loan it from his village. We started our trek while the rain gods dint have no mercy on us!!! After an initial steep climb, the trek got relatively gentler once we started approaching Agoda. We soon started realizing that our bags were over loaded. You see we were carrying luggage for Kedartal and doing Dodital trek. It was not an option either to leave some luggage back at Uttarkashi because we were not going to come back there. Loaded with heavy bags, we reached at Agoda at about 6:15PM. Our guide offered us, either to stay at Agora or head ahead to a small village 2km from Agoda named Bebra. But then he warned us that the whole place is full of leeches, and they would trouble us all night. Us gents, were all tired of day long travel and 6km of walking with heavy luggage. We decided STAY.
After changing our drenched clothes we sat with the cup of garam chai. The sky had opened up a bit, sun was shining a bit and the rainbow too appeared a little bit. Quickly all our cameras were out and click click went all of them. We had a nice dinner cooked by Mr.Jai and Co. and the skies kept on clearing. Out came the round and white... very bright moon!! Soon we all headed for our goodnight sleep. Chatting before sleep, we though over of our luggage. We came to a decision that we will not cross over from Dharwa Top and come back the same way, hence we could leave some of our luggage at Jai Bhai’s place. All agreed, we went of the sleep and snored off the night until the morning.
We got off at Sangamchatti. After an failed attempt to buy kerosene, our guide decided to buy it from or loan it from his village. We started our trek while the rain gods dint have no mercy on us!!! After an initial steep climb, the trek got relatively gentler once we started approaching Agoda. We soon started realizing that our bags were over loaded. You see we were carrying luggage for Kedartal and doing Dodital trek. It was not an option either to leave some luggage back at Uttarkashi because we were not going to come back there. Loaded with heavy bags, we reached at Agoda at about 6:15PM. Our guide offered us, either to stay at Agora or head ahead to a small village 2km from Agoda named Bebra. But then he warned us that the whole place is full of leeches, and they would trouble us all night. Us gents, were all tired of day long travel and 6km of walking with heavy luggage. We decided STAY.
After changing our drenched clothes we sat with the cup of garam chai. The sky had opened up a bit, sun was shining a bit and the rainbow too appeared a little bit. Quickly all our cameras were out and click click went all of them. We had a nice dinner cooked by Mr.Jai and Co. and the skies kept on clearing. Out came the round and white... very bright moon!! Soon we all headed for our goodnight sleep. Chatting before sleep, we though over of our luggage. We came to a decision that we will not cross over from Dharwa Top and come back the same way, hence we could leave some of our luggage at Jai Bhai’s place. All agreed, we went of the sleep and snored off the night until the morning.
click link below for pictures
Agoda to Manjhi to Dodital: (16km) -- (2250 to 3307m)
25th August, 2010: 7:30 AM
Shubhodip was the first to wake up, not only today, but every day of the trip. He made an failed attempt to wake us up and headed straight out, with an eager enthusiasm, thinking that Sun God would be shining on him. I was up, I had a feeling that it won’t be a clear day. When Shubhodip went out; forget Sun God shining on him, the Rain God was laughing on him, well and later on us too….We met another group last night who went through the same tragedy that we went through. Arshad and Co. Three gents were supposed to go to Tapovan, if not then to Kedartal, but with both being inaccessible they headed straight to Dodital. Just like us.
Bread butter, chai and coffee for breakfast, we were all set to do the long 16km hike to Dodital. Before that we had to unload some of our not so important stuff; the unwanted luggage. After our change in plan we realized that we would be arriving back to Haridwar a day earlier. Shubhodip made a call to his friend to cancel our tickets on Sunday night and book it on Saturday night. Well he had some BSNL satellite phone or something and he charged us 10 bucks.
That done, we began our journey to Dodital at around 9:30AM. Soon we reached Bebra village. It was a very gentle 2km walk. After walking a few 100m’s Bebra we stopped. Jai Bhai asked us to take off our floaters and check for leeches. I had at least 5-10 leaches sucking my blood. All of us had a little blood sucked out of our bodies. I literally had a tug-of-war with some of these leeches. Today when I am back in the comfort of my home and I write this blog, I have those leech bite marks all over my feet. They remind me of all the wonderful time I had in on this trek to Dodital!! Soon we continued on our trail to Dodital.
The Rain Gods just dint wanted to have mercy on us. They kept on pouring and pouring heavy. The trail wasn’t difficult but bluddy tiring. Our next pit stop was at Kachru; 4 km from Bebra and 6 km from Agoda. It was a small flat place with a roof and cemented parapets to seat. Chomped on chocolates we were carrying. In the mean time the rains got even more heavier. We decided to move on. Soon after a 5km walk we found ourselves at Manjhi, drenched with sweat and rains, sitting next to fire place, ordering Maggie to eat, chomping on salted peanuts and drinking garma garam chai!!
Apparently the other group, who started an hour before us from Agoda left few minutes before we arrived at that place. It certainly meant we weren’t doing bad!! After resting for about 30-45mins we continued our final stretch of 5km to Dodital. It certainly was a leisurely, 5km walk from Manjhi to Dodital. At around 4.00PM we reached Dodital and it was still bluddy raining!! Soon we had some mercy from Rain Gods and skies started opening up.
Shubhodip was the first to wake up, not only today, but every day of the trip. He made an failed attempt to wake us up and headed straight out, with an eager enthusiasm, thinking that Sun God would be shining on him. I was up, I had a feeling that it won’t be a clear day. When Shubhodip went out; forget Sun God shining on him, the Rain God was laughing on him, well and later on us too….We met another group last night who went through the same tragedy that we went through. Arshad and Co. Three gents were supposed to go to Tapovan, if not then to Kedartal, but with both being inaccessible they headed straight to Dodital. Just like us.
Bread butter, chai and coffee for breakfast, we were all set to do the long 16km hike to Dodital. Before that we had to unload some of our not so important stuff; the unwanted luggage. After our change in plan we realized that we would be arriving back to Haridwar a day earlier. Shubhodip made a call to his friend to cancel our tickets on Sunday night and book it on Saturday night. Well he had some BSNL satellite phone or something and he charged us 10 bucks.
That done, we began our journey to Dodital at around 9:30AM. Soon we reached Bebra village. It was a very gentle 2km walk. After walking a few 100m’s Bebra we stopped. Jai Bhai asked us to take off our floaters and check for leeches. I had at least 5-10 leaches sucking my blood. All of us had a little blood sucked out of our bodies. I literally had a tug-of-war with some of these leeches. Today when I am back in the comfort of my home and I write this blog, I have those leech bite marks all over my feet. They remind me of all the wonderful time I had in on this trek to Dodital!! Soon we continued on our trail to Dodital.
The Rain Gods just dint wanted to have mercy on us. They kept on pouring and pouring heavy. The trail wasn’t difficult but bluddy tiring. Our next pit stop was at Kachru; 4 km from Bebra and 6 km from Agoda. It was a small flat place with a roof and cemented parapets to seat. Chomped on chocolates we were carrying. In the mean time the rains got even more heavier. We decided to move on. Soon after a 5km walk we found ourselves at Manjhi, drenched with sweat and rains, sitting next to fire place, ordering Maggie to eat, chomping on salted peanuts and drinking garma garam chai!!
Apparently the other group, who started an hour before us from Agoda left few minutes before we arrived at that place. It certainly meant we weren’t doing bad!! After resting for about 30-45mins we continued our final stretch of 5km to Dodital. It certainly was a leisurely, 5km walk from Manjhi to Dodital. At around 4.00PM we reached Dodital and it was still bluddy raining!! Soon we had some mercy from Rain Gods and skies started opening up.
click below for pictures
DODITAL
Dodital is a beautiful lake, surrounded by thick forest of oak, fir and rhodendron. The lake is approximately hexagonal in shape, and is inhabited by golden trouts, which gives its name. ( Dodi means trout in the local language ). Reference to the Dodital are there in the Puranas, where it has been described as one of the holy lakes. It is the source to about 80 rivulets which merge to form the Assi Ganga, due to which the valley is also called Assi Ganga valley (Assi means 80 in the local language). The Assi Ganga meets the Bhagirathi at Gangotri. (Source of Information: Internet)
As soon as the skies cleared we were out again with our cameras; trying to click Dodital, the surrounding forest and high ridges from different angle along with the reflection of Dharwa Bugyal (meadow) in the clear and calm waters of the lake. Soon it got darker and we were back in our Dhaba. Had nice Hot and Sour soup followed it up with yummy pahadi dinner and then soaked ourselves into our sleeping bags. We had a major competition going on. Who would snore louder!! Vivek stayed unaffected but Pankaj had a terrible night. I had sleep in installments. Skies had cleared in night again; the white and bright moon was out smiling on us all night.
Dodital is a beautiful lake, surrounded by thick forest of oak, fir and rhodendron. The lake is approximately hexagonal in shape, and is inhabited by golden trouts, which gives its name. ( Dodi means trout in the local language ). Reference to the Dodital are there in the Puranas, where it has been described as one of the holy lakes. It is the source to about 80 rivulets which merge to form the Assi Ganga, due to which the valley is also called Assi Ganga valley (Assi means 80 in the local language). The Assi Ganga meets the Bhagirathi at Gangotri. (Source of Information: Internet)
As soon as the skies cleared we were out again with our cameras; trying to click Dodital, the surrounding forest and high ridges from different angle along with the reflection of Dharwa Bugyal (meadow) in the clear and calm waters of the lake. Soon it got darker and we were back in our Dhaba. Had nice Hot and Sour soup followed it up with yummy pahadi dinner and then soaked ourselves into our sleeping bags. We had a major competition going on. Who would snore louder!! Vivek stayed unaffected but Pankaj had a terrible night. I had sleep in installments. Skies had cleared in night again; the white and bright moon was out smiling on us all night.
FOR MORE DODITAL PICTURES: Click on the link below
Dodital-Dharwa Top- Dodital (10km) -- (3307 to 4150 to 3307m)
26th August, 2010. 7:30 AM
As usual Shubhodip was the first to wake up. It wasn’t raining but it was cloudy and was sure shot going to rain. Had hot roti and sabzi for breakfast with chai and coffee. Today we were happy that we dint have to carry that heavy luggage to top. Just took all our important stuff, camera, food and jackets and started or hike towards Dharwa top. We started at around 9:00Am. The other group guy Arshad had started before us and was suppose to meet us up there. We had to trek along the stream which eventually flowed into Dodital. Several time we had to cross the fast flowing, cold water stream; adventure but fun though. I seriously think that this trek is an Ideal rainy season trek. The cold water, chilling our feet was in a way a refreshing treat.
Soon we came to a point where the trek gets steep, real steep. Slowly and steadily we dragged ourselves to Dharwa top. The valley if full of flowers, very similar to the Valley of Flowers trek. Sometimes I felt, this place is more worthy than the valley of flowers. Many people say that Harkidun Valley is the real valley of flowers; I guess I will have to agree with them, because there are certainly many other places in the Valley of Gods, which are naturally more beautiful than the Valley of Flowers itself. Well that apart, stunning view along with the mist and fog/clouds, we were at Dharwa Top by 12:30PM.
We were happy and unhappy. Happy because our accomplishment and unhappy because the weather hadn’t opened up. It was still very cloudy and drizzling a bit. The magnificent and mind boggling views, of Bandarpoonch and Swargrohini peaks were missing. They were hiding behind the clouds. I am pretty sure all were thinging to themselves “what if we were at Kedartal and this thing would have happened?” So I guess it was a smart decision from all of us, to do a relatively easier trek, which could be enjoyed in the rainy weather. Ceratainly it was a smart decision to head back via the same route to Uttarkashi. Because the kind of luggage we had it would have been terribly difficult for us to cross over Dharwa pass. Soon the weather Gods had little mercy on us.
They decided to give us the fruit for our hard work. The sun came out, winds were blowing and clouds started clearing. Nope, it still dint help as the peaks were still hiding. Nevertheless got some fantastic panoramic vies of the ridges and valleys. Soon again we were clicking a photos. Wait a second!! Wasn’t someone going to meet us at the top? Soon we realized Arshad and his guide managed to find meat for us. Yes a goat was injured and it seemed difficult for it to survive. It soon became our dinner. We paid 200rs for 2kg of meat, cheap isn’t it.
We made a new friend at Dharwa top. A bhotia dog, cutest of all I have ever seen, I called him Sheru. He posed for our cameras. Not for food though, when we fed him chapatti refused to eat. Apparently he had smelt the meat too!! After spending about hour and a half we decided to head back to Dodital. Sheru followed me for most of the route. He stopped when I stopped and walked when I walked. He was a wonderful company. I asked him to lead and go ahead, and the guy just left. I presume, in no time he would have been at the lake. 4:00PM we were back at Dodital and guess who was waiting for us there, yes it was Mr Sheru!! He belonged to the local shepherd there staying near dhaba. While waiting for our dinner to be cooked the skies got clear, sun came out; the same old story. I manage to capture some decent silhouette’s in front of the sunset. After a long wait, the mutton was finally ready!! Had our dinner and headed back into our sleeping bags preparing for the long 22km walk back to Sangamchatti. The mutton was awesome, perfect with rice. Had soyabean curry to accompany with it!!!
As usual Shubhodip was the first to wake up. It wasn’t raining but it was cloudy and was sure shot going to rain. Had hot roti and sabzi for breakfast with chai and coffee. Today we were happy that we dint have to carry that heavy luggage to top. Just took all our important stuff, camera, food and jackets and started or hike towards Dharwa top. We started at around 9:00Am. The other group guy Arshad had started before us and was suppose to meet us up there. We had to trek along the stream which eventually flowed into Dodital. Several time we had to cross the fast flowing, cold water stream; adventure but fun though. I seriously think that this trek is an Ideal rainy season trek. The cold water, chilling our feet was in a way a refreshing treat.
Soon we came to a point where the trek gets steep, real steep. Slowly and steadily we dragged ourselves to Dharwa top. The valley if full of flowers, very similar to the Valley of Flowers trek. Sometimes I felt, this place is more worthy than the valley of flowers. Many people say that Harkidun Valley is the real valley of flowers; I guess I will have to agree with them, because there are certainly many other places in the Valley of Gods, which are naturally more beautiful than the Valley of Flowers itself. Well that apart, stunning view along with the mist and fog/clouds, we were at Dharwa Top by 12:30PM.
We were happy and unhappy. Happy because our accomplishment and unhappy because the weather hadn’t opened up. It was still very cloudy and drizzling a bit. The magnificent and mind boggling views, of Bandarpoonch and Swargrohini peaks were missing. They were hiding behind the clouds. I am pretty sure all were thinging to themselves “what if we were at Kedartal and this thing would have happened?” So I guess it was a smart decision from all of us, to do a relatively easier trek, which could be enjoyed in the rainy weather. Ceratainly it was a smart decision to head back via the same route to Uttarkashi. Because the kind of luggage we had it would have been terribly difficult for us to cross over Dharwa pass. Soon the weather Gods had little mercy on us.
They decided to give us the fruit for our hard work. The sun came out, winds were blowing and clouds started clearing. Nope, it still dint help as the peaks were still hiding. Nevertheless got some fantastic panoramic vies of the ridges and valleys. Soon again we were clicking a photos. Wait a second!! Wasn’t someone going to meet us at the top? Soon we realized Arshad and his guide managed to find meat for us. Yes a goat was injured and it seemed difficult for it to survive. It soon became our dinner. We paid 200rs for 2kg of meat, cheap isn’t it.
We made a new friend at Dharwa top. A bhotia dog, cutest of all I have ever seen, I called him Sheru. He posed for our cameras. Not for food though, when we fed him chapatti refused to eat. Apparently he had smelt the meat too!! After spending about hour and a half we decided to head back to Dodital. Sheru followed me for most of the route. He stopped when I stopped and walked when I walked. He was a wonderful company. I asked him to lead and go ahead, and the guy just left. I presume, in no time he would have been at the lake. 4:00PM we were back at Dodital and guess who was waiting for us there, yes it was Mr Sheru!! He belonged to the local shepherd there staying near dhaba. While waiting for our dinner to be cooked the skies got clear, sun came out; the same old story. I manage to capture some decent silhouette’s in front of the sunset. After a long wait, the mutton was finally ready!! Had our dinner and headed back into our sleeping bags preparing for the long 22km walk back to Sangamchatti. The mutton was awesome, perfect with rice. Had soyabean curry to accompany with it!!!
click below for pictures
Dodital – Sangamchatti 22km (via Agoda) – Uttarkashi
27th August, 2010: 7:30 AM
We knew we had to leave early, so that we could make it to Sangamchatti on time and get a jeep back to Uttarkashi. Woke up to a wonderful sunshine and clear skies that morning. For the first time throughout the trek, it was a clear and bright morning. For the whole day today we did not need a jacket or raincoat. Headed back straight to the valley after having fantastic aloo paranthas for our breakfast along with coffee. Not a very exciting thing but still with a feeling that we would be able to capture the photos of our trek route which we couldn’t capture while trekking up, because of the rains.
All our cameras were out. Jai Bhai told us that if the skies stay clear we could still manage a glimpse of Bandarpoonch peak from Manjhi. Excited we headed to Manjhi, taking loads of pictures all the way. But as I said earlier LADY LUCK wasn’t shining on me this time round. The clouds came in again in the upper parts and no view of any peaks; though Dayara Bugyal was clear in our sight. All our trek we have been walking on the rocky path. Most of it we covered wearing our floaters. I guess I paid the price. My left ankle was completely bruised. It had swollen up and walking even on flat ground was terribly painful for me. Every time the rhythm was broken and I started walking again I was in agony of pain.
I tried not to stop anywhere, but the photographer in me dint let me. Plus I am a human, I get tired, so I have to relax. But soon enough my camera batteries started wearing off. Close to Kachru, the rare and the magnificent Himalayan Vultures appeared in the blue sky. Luckily with my 20x zoom lens I managed to capture some decent shots. All this time I was praying to god “Please don’t let the battery wear off.” It dint, in fact, it’s still alive. It was here where we took a major shortcut. It was very steep but fun to get off at. At this point I crossed the threshold of my ankle injury. Maybe we shouldn’t have taken the shortcut, but hell we saved a lot of walk :o) …. 1.30PM I finally limped to Agoda, Shubhodip accompanied me, Vivek and Pankaj reached way before me. We had nice Maggie for our lunch, picked up our remaining luggage and headed straight to Sangamchatti.
By this time, I had blisters/shoe bites on my feet, cos they were wet, and my right knee felt it couldn’t take any more battering. It was like a worst nightmare coming true when while trekking down from Agoda, my right leg knee started giving up. Plus the wild plants which caused itching on our legs and hands dint help either!! I couldn’t stop there..kept on thinking few more km’s and no more walking. Jai Bhai took my bag from me so I could walk easily. It certainly helped me, thank you Jai Bhai. I was still behind everyone; soon I had Vivek for company. Even he had pulled his nerves. Both of us limped all the way to Sangamchatti taking every possible shortcut on the way, just to avoid any extra walking. Finally 4.30PM we were at Sangamchatti.
By the way don’t get put off with all that we went through, the ankle injury, the nerve pulling, knee battering etc etc etc… Its not as difficult of a trek as I might be making it sound. Apart from the leeches (that to only when it rains), and few steep portions it’s a easy and fun trek to do. All those injuries were our faults; they can happen to anyone anywhere at any damn place.
We knew we had to leave early, so that we could make it to Sangamchatti on time and get a jeep back to Uttarkashi. Woke up to a wonderful sunshine and clear skies that morning. For the first time throughout the trek, it was a clear and bright morning. For the whole day today we did not need a jacket or raincoat. Headed back straight to the valley after having fantastic aloo paranthas for our breakfast along with coffee. Not a very exciting thing but still with a feeling that we would be able to capture the photos of our trek route which we couldn’t capture while trekking up, because of the rains.
All our cameras were out. Jai Bhai told us that if the skies stay clear we could still manage a glimpse of Bandarpoonch peak from Manjhi. Excited we headed to Manjhi, taking loads of pictures all the way. But as I said earlier LADY LUCK wasn’t shining on me this time round. The clouds came in again in the upper parts and no view of any peaks; though Dayara Bugyal was clear in our sight. All our trek we have been walking on the rocky path. Most of it we covered wearing our floaters. I guess I paid the price. My left ankle was completely bruised. It had swollen up and walking even on flat ground was terribly painful for me. Every time the rhythm was broken and I started walking again I was in agony of pain.
I tried not to stop anywhere, but the photographer in me dint let me. Plus I am a human, I get tired, so I have to relax. But soon enough my camera batteries started wearing off. Close to Kachru, the rare and the magnificent Himalayan Vultures appeared in the blue sky. Luckily with my 20x zoom lens I managed to capture some decent shots. All this time I was praying to god “Please don’t let the battery wear off.” It dint, in fact, it’s still alive. It was here where we took a major shortcut. It was very steep but fun to get off at. At this point I crossed the threshold of my ankle injury. Maybe we shouldn’t have taken the shortcut, but hell we saved a lot of walk :o) …. 1.30PM I finally limped to Agoda, Shubhodip accompanied me, Vivek and Pankaj reached way before me. We had nice Maggie for our lunch, picked up our remaining luggage and headed straight to Sangamchatti.
By this time, I had blisters/shoe bites on my feet, cos they were wet, and my right knee felt it couldn’t take any more battering. It was like a worst nightmare coming true when while trekking down from Agoda, my right leg knee started giving up. Plus the wild plants which caused itching on our legs and hands dint help either!! I couldn’t stop there..kept on thinking few more km’s and no more walking. Jai Bhai took my bag from me so I could walk easily. It certainly helped me, thank you Jai Bhai. I was still behind everyone; soon I had Vivek for company. Even he had pulled his nerves. Both of us limped all the way to Sangamchatti taking every possible shortcut on the way, just to avoid any extra walking. Finally 4.30PM we were at Sangamchatti.
By the way don’t get put off with all that we went through, the ankle injury, the nerve pulling, knee battering etc etc etc… Its not as difficult of a trek as I might be making it sound. Apart from the leeches (that to only when it rains), and few steep portions it’s a easy and fun trek to do. All those injuries were our faults; they can happen to anyone anywhere at any damn place.
click below for pictures
UTTARKASHI
We took a jeep back to Uttarkashi, checked into a hotel. First time in last 5 days we took a bath. While Vivek and Shubhodip rested, me and Pankaj headed out to explore Uttarkashi. Since I had been here before during my trek to Gangotri, I knew the place well. We headed straight to the Bridge/Jhula over the Bhagirathi River. I bet it’s the most awesome place to be in Uttarkashi after the sunset. Its very relaxing and refreshing. Watching the reflections of the town lights in the flowing waters of Bhagirathi is simply awesome. We spent about 45mins there. Tell you not just the Bhagirathi River looks beautiful, but the local ladies are pretty too.
It was time to head back to get other guys and have some dinner. Mr Pitamber advised us to dine at Grilled Chicken, who make some fantastic chicken dishes. After meeting Shubhoodip and Vivek near our hotel, we began to hunt for the hotel!! It was very far away, so we decided to eat somewhere else. We had soup at one hotel… Dal Roti Sabzi and Chawal at another hotel and had some boiled eggs on the way too.. If that wasn’t enough me and Vivek ate sprouts after eating our dinner…Oh by the way me and Pankaj earlier had ½ Liters o mixed fresh fruit juice each!!! After eating so much and having a cup of chai we went off to sleep. Oh by the way we managed to get tickets in the AC special Nizamuddin Express from Dehradun for Saturday night.
It was time to head back to get other guys and have some dinner. Mr Pitamber advised us to dine at Grilled Chicken, who make some fantastic chicken dishes. After meeting Shubhoodip and Vivek near our hotel, we began to hunt for the hotel!! It was very far away, so we decided to eat somewhere else. We had soup at one hotel… Dal Roti Sabzi and Chawal at another hotel and had some boiled eggs on the way too.. If that wasn’t enough me and Vivek ate sprouts after eating our dinner…Oh by the way me and Pankaj earlier had ½ Liters o mixed fresh fruit juice each!!! After eating so much and having a cup of chai we went off to sleep. Oh by the way we managed to get tickets in the AC special Nizamuddin Express from Dehradun for Saturday night.
The RETURN
Next morning i.e. 28th August, 2010, after having our breakfast, we took a jeep back to Dehradun via Chamba, Dhanaulti and Mussourie. The route from Chamba to Dehradun was significantly beautiful and roads were much better. We reached Vivek’s place in Dehradun at 7:00PM. Had fantastic dinner at his place and headed back to station to board the train. Oh by the way, India lost to Sri Lanka that day in the tri series final match.
We reached Delhi on time and soon reached to the comforts of our home. I think initially when the plan was changed there was a change in mood too. Certainly I kept thinking of Kedartal for first part of the trek!! But soon I recovered. Not only did we get back some wonderful memories from this trip, but some leech bites and I certainly got back an ankle injury too. I recon for the first time in 5 yrs of trekking experience I managed to come back injured; an injury that lasted for more than 5 days after the trek. Talking about memories; well how can I forget the Mutton that we had. I think it’s another first time for me. Crossing the stream so many times in one trek itself was something I really enjoyed. We all had some very funny moments all thanks to Shubhodip, he always took everything very sportingly. And the snore fight I had with Shubhodip, one night he dint let us sleep, I took the revenge for next 3 nights… the cutest bhotia dog “Sheru,” I had ever seen, would always stay in my memories.
Yet another, unplanned but a wonderful trek comes to an end. Hope I dint bore you with my story. Oh before bidding adios, let me share the contact details of the agency through which we went:
Contact: HighLand Trek & Tours
Pitamber, Uttarkashi
013374 222680
09412026657
Guide: Jay Kumar : 09410353989
If you intend to do only Dodital and Dharwa To and not cross across to Hanuman Chatti, its best to just contact the guide, because you have accommodation and food all the way through the trek.
Take care while trekking and come back home injury free and with tons of memories. Happy trekking to everyone who reads my travelogue….
Thanks&Regards
Tanzeem Patankar
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